Snapped a wheel stud.

[parker]

My mate had one snap off his prelude when someone tried to steal his rims and he drove off not knowing that the lock nut was the only nut left on one of his wheels. He said it cost $90 to fix at a tyre shop.

[J-Flo]

Far out!
$90 isn't too bad i guess.
But it's $90 more than i wanted to spend haha.

[Blackbird]

It's a pretty easy job man.....

Take the wheel off,
Take the brake caliper off at the hub (Hint 2 x 17mm bolts)

Lift the caliper assembly out of the way. Wire it to the strut being careful not to stress the brake line too much.

Pull the disc off the hub. May help to give it a couple of "soft taps" with a big rubber mallet on each side to get it to shuffle off.

inside you'll see where the stud has broken off... get a hammer and a punch and carefully knock it out.... be patient and don't try to smash it with one big hit...

Get a new stud either from mitso, or an auto parts store... about $4 each and a spare wheel nut (Deep one) from Supercheap...
Grease the nut and use it to "pull" the stud into place as you tighten the nut Just think of putting on a wheel nut without the wheel there.
You'll see when you've gone far enough...

I snapped a couple on mine ended up changing all 20 of them... rear ones are harder because of the handbrake....

I wouldn't pay $90 for that.... 15 minute job

Steve

[leadfoot6]

It's a pretty easy job man.....

Take the wheel off,
Take the brake caliper off at the hub (Hint 2 x 17mm bolts)

Lift the caliper assembly out of the way. Wire it to the strut being careful not to stress the brake line too much.

Pull the disc off the hub. May help to give it a couple of "soft taps" with a big rubber mallet on each side to get it to shuffle off.

inside you'll see where the stud has broken off... get a hammer and a punch and carefully knock it out.... be patient and don't try to smash it with one big hit...

Get a new stud either from mitso, or an auto parts store... about $4 each and a spare wheel nut (Deep one) from Supercheap...
Grease the nut and use it to "pull" the stud into place as you tighten the nut Just think of putting on a wheel nut without the wheel there.
You'll see when you've gone far enough...

I snapped a couple on mine ended up changing all 20 of them... rear ones are harder because of the handbrake....

I wouldn't pay $90 for that.... 15 minute job

Steve

Below, I have posted an image of the hub/bearing assembly taken by MitsFix.

Luckily, I did not need to go to the trouble of removing the caliper and disk, but until I saw the following image, I was not 100% clear as to what exactly I was dealing with.

I hope the image will put everyone "in the picture" so to speak, of what is involved when needing to replace a wheel stud.

It shows that studs can be removed one by one (bashed out by hammer or by using a special stud or bolt remover - which I don't own but was referred to in one of the youtube videos I linked to above) with the hub on the car without the hub needing to be removed.

Below is the link to the sale of a complete second hand hub/steering knuckle/upright with a brand new Koyo bearing installed and the description detailing the torque specification for the very large retaining nut for the front drive shaft.

Front LHS Hub / Knuckle with NEW KOYO Wheel Bearings Installed
Suits
Mitsubishi Magna TE, TF, TH, TJ, TL, TW
Mitsubishi Verada TE, TF, TH, TJ, TL, TW
Suits all Sedan and Wagon
Suits ABS and NON ABS
Suits both FWD and AWD
There is no core deposit or requirement to return your old hub once replaced.
This unit is offered with the bearings already installed as many people do not have the equipment required to press these bearings in. Item will come ready to install into your vehicle.
Please note, front drive shaft requires to be set to correct torque setting of 185 - 225 nm in order to seat on the bearings correctly. Under or Over torque may cause damage to the bearing pack.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Hu...-/192135619484



I imagine that the front wheel bearings will give some indication of impending doom, so I can make plans without rushing.

I had the rear wheel bearings replaced just as a precaution at 190,000km even though there was no indication of problems.

Other posters, for AWD models, have needed to replace these at a lower distance travelled, one as low as 160,000km IIRC.

https://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=98359

At the time, the rear end was receiving extensive suspension bushing renewal when my TL AWD was at MitsFix receiving the 380/6G75 conversion last November, so to me it made sense to have the work carried out at the same time.

Some time in the future, I imaging that my front wheel bearings will need to be replaced.

I will probably buy the above hub/knuckle assembly fully assembled from MitsFix, and have a local mechanic install them and do a wheel alignment at the same time.

I will have brand new wheel studs fitted at the same time.

P.S. I did a long return trip to Sydney yesterday.....the wheel did not fall off or make any strange noises.....all must be well.....